Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

The Andes · Volume 18, Peru, the Coastal Creole, Chifa and Nikkei Kitchen

Ají de gallina

Peru (colonial, from Catalan menjar blanc)

Ají de gallina, creamy shredded chicken in chilli sauce: a thick, pale golden orange sauce draped over shredded chicken and sliced potato, a scatter of black olive halves and a quarter of boiled egg resting on top.

An illustration of the dish, not a photograph of it cooked.

Time
Not statedNo source states a time and the atlas has too few comparable dishes to estimate one.
Researched
Researched from 64 sources in the brief, none yet linked in the text
Reviewed
Not yet reviewed from inside the tradition
Cooked
Not yet cooked and reported

As tradition built it

Ají de gallina

Descended from menjar blanc

Ingredients

An outline, not yet a recipe: the tradition's method with its ingredients named but not weighed. Quantities are being added from sources inside the tradition, lead dishes first.

Method

  1. Build a sauce from bread soaked in milk, evaporated milk, ground walnuts or pecans, parmesan and ají amarillo.
  2. Fold shredded chicken through the sauce.
  3. Serve over sliced papa amarilla, huayro or white potato as fallback.
  4. Garnish with olive and hard-boiled egg.

Notes

A genuinely traceable colonial inheritance: the medieval Catalan and Spanish sweet dish menjar blanc, chicken, almonds, sugar and flour, was reworked on the Peruvian coast into something savoury, ají amarillo and pecans replacing sugar and almonds.

What a modern chef changes

Sous vide chicken, a fully smooth sauce

Method

  1. Poach the chicken sous vide to a precise, still-moist doneness before shredding, rather than boiling it through in the sauce, where it tends to dry as the sauce reduces around it.
  2. Pass the finished sauce through the chinois for a completely smooth, grit-free result, no trace of the bread's texture left behind.
  3. Toast the walnuts or pecans and grind them fresh in the spice grinder immediately before folding through the sauce, for a cleaner, less bitter nuttiness than pre-ground or stale nuts give.
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