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Mesoamerica · Volume 03, The Port, the Delta and Vanilla's Own Country

Uliche

Chontal Tabasco (Nacajuca, Centro, Jalpa de Méndez, Macuspana and Centla), Mexico

Uliche, a corn thickened Chontal Maya broth: a pale, thick, atole like broth in a rustic clay cajete, pieces of turkey visible just beneath the surface, a scattering of ground pumpkin seed and small dried chiles across the top.

Illustration

As tradition built it

Uliche

Chontal zone; Día de Muertos, 2 November

Ingredients

The tradition's method, with the ingredients named. Quantities follow as we verify them.

  • 1 turkey, cut into pieces (or the beef equivalent) turkey or beef
  • 3 heads, roasted garlic
  • 1, large onion
  • 500g, parboiled once nixtamal (prepared corn)
  • cumin, toasted
  • 1, sautéed tomato
  • sweet chile
  • achiote
  • cumin (for the achiote paste)
  • for garnish pumpkin seed, ground, to garnish
  • to taste chile amashito, to garnish

Method

  1. Blanch the turkey or beef with garlic and onion until tender, then remove.
  2. Grind the nixtamal with toasted cumin into a masa, strain through cloth, and add back to the broth with tomato and a sweet chile.
  3. Cook over low heat with constant stirring until it reaches an atole-like consistency.
  4. Grind achiote and cumin separately in a molcajete and stir in.
  5. Serve in a clay cajete, garnished with ground pumpkin seed and chile amashito.

Notes

Prepared specifically for Día de Muertos and placed on Chontal altars on 2 November, concentrated in the Chontal zone.

What a modern chef changes

Chinois-strained masa, fresh-toasted spice

Method

  1. Nixtamalize the maize at home, the same controlled transformation used for the garnachas above.
  2. Strain the ground masa liquid through a chinois rather than cloth alone, for a genuinely silkier finished broth.
  3. Toast the cumin and achiote fresh in the spice grinder immediately before use rather than relying on pre-ground spice, the comal-toasting principle applied to a wet-ground rather than dry-ground paste.
  4. Dehydrate the pumpkin seed garnish briefly after toasting for a more concentrated crunch against the broth's own smooth body.
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