Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

Mesoamerica · Volume 03, The Port, the Delta and Vanilla's Own Country

Huachinango a la veracruzana

Veracruz, Mexico

Huachinango a la veracruzana, whole red snapper in an olive and caper tomato sauce: a whole baked red snapper on an oval earthenware platter, its skin just visible beneath a thick, glossy reddish tomato sauce studded with whole green and black olives and a scattering of capers.

An illustration of the dish, not a photograph of it cooked.

Time
Not statedNo source states a time and the atlas has too few comparable dishes to estimate one.
Researched
Researched from 65 sources in the brief, none yet linked in the text
Reviewed
Not yet reviewed from inside the tradition
Cooked
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As tradition built it

Huachinango a la veracruzana

Larousse Cocina Mexicana; serves six

Ingredients

Fish

Salsa veracruzana

Method

Salsa veracruzana

  1. Sauté the onion and garlic until lightly golden.
  2. Add the green and black olives and capers and sauté a further two minutes.
  3. Add the blended tomato and simmer on low heat for twenty five minutes.
  4. Add the hierbas de olor bundle, chopped fresh tomato and pickled chiles en escabeche and cook a further ten minutes, until thickened.

Fish

  1. Clean the whole red snapper.
  2. Rub with the juice of four limes and rest fifteen minutes.
  3. Season with salt and pepper.
  4. Coat with roughly two cups of the salsa veracruzana.
  5. Bake at 180°C for 15 to 20 minutes. Serves six.

Notes

Larousse Cocina Mexicana, the standard in-country recipe reference, notes this sauce is unusual among Mexican salsas for carrying no real heat at all, and that household versions add sugar, raisins, red pepper or carrot, a live, ordinary variation rather than a single fixed formula.

What a modern chef changes

Bled fish, a patient sofrito, an Egg-roasted whole snapper

Rung 01, 02

Method

  1. Buy the whole snapper from a fishmonger who can confirm it was bled and iced promptly, the sangrado principle applied at the point of purchase rather than the point of catch.
  2. Build the sofrito with the full twenty five minutes rather than rushing it.
  3. Pass the finished sauce through a chinois for a smoother coating than the traditional rustic texture gives, keeping a spoonful of the unstrained solids back to fold in at the end for body.
  4. Finish the fish on a Big Green Egg run indirect at 180°C with the ceramic deflector in, rather than a domestic oven, for a faint wood aromatic and a more even, gentler heat around a whole fish's uneven shape.
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