Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

Mesoamerica · Volume 08, Pupusas, Gallo Pinto and the Pacific Volcanic Belt

Nacatamal

Nicaragua

Nacatamal, a Nicaraguan banana leaf tamale of rice, potato and pork in achiote masa: a large, tightly bound banana leaf parcel, part unwrapped to show a golden orange masa studded with rice, sliced potato and a piece of pork rib.

An illustration of the dish, not a photograph of it cooked.

Time
4 hours
Researched
Researched from 72 sources in the brief, none yet linked in the text
Reviewed
Not yet reviewed from inside the tradition
Cooked
Not yet cooked and reported

As tradition built it

Nacatamal

Serves 8. About 4 hours.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Mix masa from maize dough, warm water, sour orange juice and lard, kneaded to a soft, moist consistency.
  2. Sauté onion, chiltoma and tomato, plus mint, in lard.
  3. Work the sautéed mixture through the masa itself, cook over medium heat and stir continuously until it thickens into a dense, porridge-like paste that pulls away from the pan bottom.
  4. Place the masa in the centre of softened banana leaves.
  5. Fill with rice, potato slices, chiltoma, onion, tomato and pieces of pork rib and loin.
  6. Tie the leaf parcel tightly.
  7. Boil at medium-low heat for 4 to 5 hours until tender.

Notes

Named from Nahuatl nacatl, meat, and tamalli, tamal, tracing the dish's own name to Nahua, Nicarao-linked linguistic layers, even though it is now claimed as distinctly Nicaraguan against the smaller, plainer Mexican or Honduran tamal.

What a modern chef changes

Concentrated souring, separately held pork

Rung 01, 03

Method

  1. Reduce the sour orange marinade in a dehydrator into a concentrated paste before it goes into the masa, a genuine intensification of the dish's own souring agent rather than a substitution for it.
  2. Pass the finished masa through a chinois after mixing for a silkier texture than hand-stirring alone gives.
  3. Hold the pork separately at a precise sous vide temperature until just tender, then fold it into the assembled parcel for a shorter final boil, long enough for the banana leaf's aroma to properly penetrate the masa without the meat itself overcooking.

Notes

The parcel's own leaf-steaming logic is preserved rather than replaced by this change.

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