Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

The Levant and Anatolia · Volume 01, The Oil Coast, the Anchovy Coast and the Court Between Them

Çerkez Tavuğu

Istanbul, palace and public table alike

Çerkez tavuğu, poached chicken bound in a walnut and bread purée: shredded pale chicken bound in a thick, pale beige walnut purée, plated in a loose mound, finished with a bright orange red drizzle of paprika oil across the top and a scatter of coarsely chopped walnut pieces.

An illustration of the dish, not a photograph of it cooked.

Time
1 hour
Researched
20 sources cited
Reviewed
Not yet reviewed from inside the tradition
Cooked
Not yet cooked and reported

Poached chicken bound in a walnut and bread purée, and the clearest test in this chapter of the blend-and-strain discipline.

History at Rung 2 and above: a real but imprecisely dated connection to nineteenth-century Circassian migration into Istanbul.

As tradition built it

Serves 4 to 6. About 1 hour.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Poach the chicken in salted water for 30 to 35 minutes, reserve the broth.
  2. Crush the walnut with the garlic, the soaked bread, cumin, salt and pepper.
  3. Blend to a purée, letting down with a little more broth until pourable.
  4. Shred the cooled chicken and bind it thoroughly in the purée.
  5. Plate, finish with paprika oil (oil warmed with red pepper flakes) and a scatter of walnut pieces.
  6. Serve warm or cold.

What a modern chef changes

The sauce's texture as the whole point.

Rung 2

Method

  1. Blend the walnut sauce properly smooth in a high-power blender, then always pass it through a chinois before binding the chicken; this removes the tannic walnut-skin grit that separates a chalky home version from a clean restaurant one.
  2. Do not skip the paprika oil finish. It is a genuine textural and flavour contrast to the smooth sauce beneath it, not decoration.
  3. Serve the sauce slightly looser than feels right off the blender; it thickens further as it cools around the chicken.
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