Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

The Levant and Anatolia · Volume 01, The Oil Coast, the Anchovy Coast and the Court Between Them

Karalahana Çorbası

The Black Sea coast, Rize

Karalahana çorbası, a Black Sea cabbage soup with cracked corn and beans: a rustic bowl of thick, dark green flecked soup, visible pale beans and cracked corn kernels breaking the surface, a small pat of butter just melting into the centre.

Illustration

Time
Hands on 1 hour 30 · Waiting 8 hours
Researched
20 sources cited

A cavolo-nero-type cabbage soup with cracked corn and beans, the region's structural everyday dish rather than a special-occasion one.

As tradition built it

Serves 4 to 6. About 1.5 hours, plus overnight soaking.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Boil the soaked corn with the cooked beans in the hot water until tender.
  2. Add the finely chopped karalahana, simmer until softening.
  3. Add the diced squash.
  4. Near the end of the squash's cooking, stir in the red pepper, butter and oil, simmer a further 10 minutes.
  5. Loosen the cornstarch in a little water, stir in, add salt, simmer a final 10 minutes.

Notes

Sourced to the Turkish Ministry of Culture's own portal, itself citing the Rize Provincial Directorate of Culture and Tourism.

What a modern chef changes

No rung; a sourcing honesty rather than a technique change, since the dish itself is already correctly humble.

Method

  1. Use genuine cavolo nero rather than a headed cabbage substitute, the closest real botanical match this chapter's research could confirm for karalahana, and say so on the menu rather than calling it simply "cabbage soup."
  2. Do not rush the corn and bean simmer. The dish's whole body depends on both being properly tender before the greens go in, not on the greens themselves, which cook quickly.
  3. Finish with a little extra butter at the table, in keeping with this coast's dairy-forward character rather than the Aegean's oil-forward one.
Open in the atlas: cook mode, scaling and tick off lists