Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

Persia and the Caucasus · Volume 12, The South Caucasus and the Disputed Table

Piti

Azerbaijan

Piti, lamb and chickpeas sealed in an individual clay pot and served as two courses: a small unglazed clay pot with its lid set to one side, a rich pale broth visible within studded with chickpeas and a piece of tender lamb.

Illustration

Time
8 hours
Researched
8 sources cited

Individual clay-pot lamb and chickpea stew, where the eating ritual is the real technique.

As tradition built it

Serves 4, in individual pots. 7 to 8 hours.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Soak the chickpeas in hot water for 4 to 5 hours; soak the lamb separately in cold water for 4 to 5 hours.
  2. Into each individual pot, layer the chickpeas first, then the chopped onion, then the meat, then a piece of tail fat on top.
  3. Salt, add water to cover, and simmer gently, sealed, for 7 to 8 hours.
  4. Roughly 15 minutes before the pots come off the heat, add dried apricot, potato and a pinch of saffron to each.
  5. To serve: pour the broth off first over bread crumbled into a bowl, dressed with sumac, and eat this as the first course. Mash the remaining solids together in the pot with more sumac and eat as the second course, with raw onion alongside.

What a modern chef changes

The sealed vessel and the two-course ritual both taken seriously.

Rung 7

Method

  1. Run the pots in a very low Big Green Egg used as an oven, a stable, gentle dome temperature over the full cooking time, rather than a domestic oven, for a closer approximation of the sealed clay vessel's slow, even heat.
  2. Do not combine the broth and the solids before serving. The two-course structure is the dish, not an optional presentation choice, and combining them into one bowl loses the point of the ritual entirely.
  3. Season each course separately with fresh sumac at the table, rather than cooking sumac into the pot, for the sharp contrast the tradition depends on.
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