Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

Britain and Ireland · Volume 33, The Bakestone, the Broth and the Salt Marsh

Cawl

South Wales (Dowlais, Merthyr Tydfil)

Cawl, a Welsh lamb and leek broth: a deep earthenware bowl of pale golden broth with tender pieces of lamb and beef, chunks of swede, carrot and potato, and pale rings of leek visible beneath the surface.

An illustration of the dish, not a photograph of it cooked.

Time
2 hours
Researched
No outside sources linked
Reviewed
Not yet reviewed from inside the tradition
Cooked
Not yet cooked and reported

The national dish, in its best-documented form: an industrial South Wales recipe from Dowlais, Merthyr Tydfil, archived by Amgueddfa Cymru.

As tradition built it

About 1½ to 2 hours in total.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put the beef leg joint and lamb best end of leg into salted water and boil together for an hour.
  2. Add the root vegetables, swede and carrot, in stages according to how long each takes to cook.
  3. Add the leeks and potato once the meat is tender.
  4. Thicken the broth at the end with a flour-and-water paste stirred through.
  5. Add the parsley only in the last few minutes, to keep its colour and freshness rather than let it cook down to nothing.
  6. Cook for a total of roughly an hour and a half to two hours.
  7. Serve as two courses from one pot, the broth first, then the meat and vegetables together, often finished at the table with a wedge of Caerphilly cheese crumbled in to soften in the heat.

Notes

This is honestly a South Wales, industrial-economy version of the dish; North Wales has its own upland pot, lobscows, a thicker beef and root vegetable stew documented as farm lunch fare across Gwynedd and as "quarry supper" in the slate-quarrying villages of Llŷn, but no source found in researching this chapter gives lobscows real quantities and timings to match, and this chapter will not invent them.

What a modern chef changes

Two proteins sous vide to their own doneness, and a clarified broth poured tableside

Rung 2

Method

  1. Cook the beef and lamb separately and sous vide: the beef at 58°C for 36 hours, the lamb at 56°C for 12, rather than boiling both together to a single point of doneness. Each protein reaches its own correct texture rather than a compromise between the two.
  2. Clarify the combined braising liquid through a gelatine and agar raft and pass it through a chinois for a genuinely clear broth.
  3. Cook a small dice of root vegetables separately to retain bite.
  4. Pour the clarified broth tableside over the meats and vegetables.
  5. Finish with a Caerphilly cheese foam, made in a whipping siphon from the same cheese traditionally crumbled in at the table, rather than the wedge itself, keeping the flavour but changing how it meets the broth.
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