Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

The Andes · Volume 17, Altitude, Chuño and the Picantería Table

Chupe de camarones

Arequipa, Peru

Chupe de camarones, river shrimp chowder: a deep bowl of pale orange chowder, whole pink river shrimp breaking the surface, chunks of potato and sweetcorn visible beneath a light film of melted cheese.

Illustration

As tradition built it

Chupe de camarones

Traditionally made in a clay pot

Ingredients

Method

  1. Build an aderezo of oil, onion, garlic, ají panca, oregano and skinned, deseeded tomato.
  2. Add rocoto, choclo, peas and rice, and cook for five minutes.
  3. Add potato and more choclo, and cook for a further five minutes.
  4. Add the whole river shrimp and bring the pot to a single boil.
  5. Stir in milk and fold through cheese at the very end.

Notes

No single cheese is agreed as canonical; queso serrano, queso fresco de cabra and queso lluta arequipeño all appear depending on the household.

What a modern chef changes

Separated poach, clarified aderezo

Method

  1. Poach the shrimp separately, sous vide, at a low enough temperature to keep them properly tender, then add them to the finished chowder only at the point of serving.
  2. Reduce the aderezo's own base further and pass it through the chinois before the rest of the pot goes in.
  3. Finish with a dusting of dehydrated, spice-ground ají panca over the top.
Open in the atlas: cook mode, scaling and tick off lists