Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

The Slavic east and the Balkans · Volume 30, The Living Culture, the Roman Vein and the Rose Valley

Mici

Romania

Mici, Romanian grilled minced meat rolls without casing: several short charred cylindrical meat rolls with a deeply browned, blistered surface and visible grill marks, stacked loosely on brown paper.

An illustration of the dish, not a photograph of it cooked.

Time
24 hours
Researched
No outside sources linked
Reviewed
Not yet reviewed from inside the tradition
Cooked
Not yet cooked and reported

Romania, the casing-free grilled sausage born from an 1870s shortage in a Bucharest tavern.

As tradition built it

Makes about 1 kg mixture, serves 4 to 6. Rested 12 to 24 hours, sometimes 2 to 3 days, then grilled.

Ingredients

For the mixture, per kilogram

Method

  1. Combine roughly seven hundred grams of beef with three hundred grams of fatty pork or lamb, at least twenty per cent fat.
  2. Season with roughly twenty two grams of salt per kilogram, thyme, five to six juniper berries, coriander, caraway, sweet paprika and five to seven cloves of garlic.
  3. Slake at least three grams of bicarbonate per kilogram in lemon juice and work it through the mince.
  4. Work in two hundred and fifty to three hundred and fifty millilitres of very cold concentrated bone broth or mineral water.
  5. Rest twelve to twenty four hours, sometimes two to three days, before grilling.
  6. Shape without casing and grill.

Notes

Legend credits Iordache N. Ionescu's tavern on Covaci Street, Bucharest, operating roughly 1870 to 1890, where a shortage of sausage casings forced the kitchen to grill seasoned minced meat without the gut casing at all, a patron nicknaming the result "mititei." A documented 1902 standard specifies at least three grams of sodium bicarbonate per kilogram of minced meat.

What a modern chef changes

Hand-ground meat, fresh-ground spice and a vacuum-rested mince, per rung four

Rung 4

Method

  1. Grind the meat coarsely by hand rather than through a fine plate, keeping real texture rather than a smooth paste.
  2. Grind the paprika, coriander and caraway fresh in a dedicated spice grinder rather than reaching for pre-ground jars.
  3. Rest the bicarbonate-treated mince under vacuum compression rather than simply refrigerated loose, for a more even distribution through the full resting time, per rung four.
  4. Grill over genuine live fire on the Big Green Egg rather than a gas grill, closer in spirit to Romania's own grătar tradition.
  5. Serve with a confit garlic mujdei, the raw garlic sauce gently cooked down first for sweetness and body rather than left sharp and raw.
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