Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

The Slavic east and the Balkans · Volume 30, The Living Culture, the Roman Vein and the Rose Valley

Papanași

Romania

Papanași, Romanian fried cheese dumplings with sour cream and jam: two golden fried cheese dumplings stacked on a plate, one large ring shaped and one small round ball balanced on top, a generous dollop of white soured cream crowning it with a bright spoonful of dark red berry jam trailing down the side.

An illustration of the dish, not a photograph of it cooked.

Time
45 minutes
Researched
No outside sources linked
Reviewed
Not yet reviewed from inside the tradition
Cooked
Not yet cooked and reported

Romania, fried cheese dumplings, sour cream and jam.

As tradition built it

Serves 4. About 45 minutes.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Work the sweet cow's-milk cheese with egg, flour, semolina or breadcrumbs and sugar into a soft dough.
  2. Shape into dumplings.
  3. Fry or boil.
  4. Serve warm with a spoonful of sour cream and fruit jam or preserve, sometimes simply dusted with sugar instead.

Notes

The cheese folded through the dough, rather than left as a separate filling, is what actually distinguishes papanași from a plain doughnut.

What a modern chef changes

A chinois-strained curd, a sous vide poach and a blended fruit gel

About 1 hour

Method

  1. Pass the cheese mixture through a chinois before shaping, for a genuinely smooth, lump-free interior rather than the traditional slightly grainy curd.
  2. Poach a portion of each dumpling gently sous vide before its final fry, giving a controlled, custard-soft centre against the crisp fried exterior.
  3. Build the jam element as a high-power-blended fruit gel, set just firm enough to hold a quenelle shape, rather than a spoonful of jam straight from the jar.
  4. Finish with a light sour cream foam, whipped and lightly stabilised, in place of the traditional dollop.
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