Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

The Slavic east and the Balkans · Volume 30, The Living Culture, the Roman Vein and the Rose Valley

Sarmale

Romania

Sarmale, Romanian stuffed cabbage rolls with pork and rice: several small tightly rolled parcels of pale soured cabbage leaf stacked in a dark shallow dish, one roll cut through to show the pink minced pork and rice filling inside.

An illustration of the dish, not a photograph of it cooked.

Time
3 hours
Researched
No outside sources linked
Reviewed
Not yet reviewed from inside the tradition
Cooked
Not yet cooked and reported

Romania, the stuffed-cabbage dish that runs through every regional table in the country.

As tradition built it

Serves 6. About 3 hours.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Mix the minced pork, sometimes with beef, with rice, sautéed onion, tomato paste and roughly two teaspoons of sweet paprika per batch.
  2. Roll into a compact but not overtight cylinder inside whole soured cabbage leaves, leaving room for the rice to expand.
  3. Simmer long and slow over low heat until the leaves are fully soft.
  4. Serve with smântână and mămăligă.

What a modern chef changes

Sous vide rice, smoked leaves and a chinois-strained braising liquid

About 3.5 hours

Method

  1. Part-cook the rice separately in stock under sous vide before folding it into the filling, so it cannot crack the leaf by over-expanding during the long simmer the traditional method still needs.
  2. Smoke the soured cabbage leaves briefly over embers on the Big Green Egg before rolling, a genuine but not traditional flourish that plays to the leaves' own sourness rather than fighting it.
  3. Blend a portion of the cabbage's own soured brine into the braising liquid and pass it through a chinois for a smoother, more integrated sauce.
  4. Plate with a quenelle of properly fermented smântână rather than a spoonful straight from the tub.
Open in the atlas: cook mode, scaling and tick off lists