Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

The Slavic east and the Balkans · Volume 30, The Living Culture, the Roman Vein and the Rose Valley

Banitsa

Bulgaria

Banitsa, a Bulgarian spiral filo pastry filled with sirene cheese, egg and yoghurt: a coiled golden brown spiral of thin flaky pastry in a round baking dish, one wedge cut and lifted onto its side to show the layered filling.

An illustration of the dish, not a photograph of it cooked.

Time
1 hour
Researched
No outside sources linked
Reviewed
Not yet reviewed from inside the tradition
Cooked
Not yet cooked and reported

Bulgaria, the everyday and festive filo pie, and the clearest test of rung five in this whole chapter.

As tradition built it

Serves 6 to 8. About 1 hour, plus resting the dough.

Ingredients

For the dough

For the filling

Method

  1. Make a cold-water dough of flour, water, salt, a little vinegar and oil, kneaded briefly.
  2. Rest the dough fifteen to forty minutes.
  3. Hand-stretch the dough into paper-thin sheets.
  4. Mash the sirene, egg and kiselo mlyako together roughly for the filling.
  5. Layer or coil the sheets into a spiral with the filling.
  6. Bake until deeply golden.

Notes

Eaten daily as breakfast and at every major festive occasion, New Year's banitsa traditionally hides written-paper fortunes folded into the parcels.

What a modern chef changes

Hand-stretched yufka, a blended filling and a dehydrated sirene snow

Rung 5

Method

  1. Use genuinely hand-stretched yufka rather than fighting homemade dough under time pressure, per rung five.
  2. Blend the sirene, egg and kiselo mlyako filling in a high-power blender with a spoonful of extra kiselo mlyako, giving an aerated, lighter curd rather than the traditional coarse mash.
  3. Bake on a pizza stone in a Big Green Egg held at a controlled indirect heat for a more evenly crisped base than a domestic oven's uneven bottom heat gives.
  4. Dehydrate sirene firm, then blitz to a powder, and dust the resulting "snow" over the top for concentrated saltiness without adding moisture back onto the crisp pastry.
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