Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

Britain and Ireland · Volume 32, The Mill, the Pie and the Steel Pan

Yorkshire Curd Tart

Yorkshire

Yorkshire curd tart, Whitsuntide curd and currant tart: a pale golden baked tart in a shortcrust case, its set curd filling speckled with dark currants and lightly domed with a faint crack across the surface.

An illustration of the dish, not a photograph of it cooked.

Time
30 minutes
Researched
No outside sources linked
Reviewed
Not yet reviewed from inside the tradition
Cooked
Not yet cooked and reported

Curd cheese, a soft, unsalted, mild fresh cheese, is essential and not interchangeable with cottage cheese's larger, tangier curds, a substitution every source consulted in researching this chapter explicitly warns against. The dish is traditionally dated to the early to mid seventeenth century, tied to Whitsuntide and the surplus curds left over from Yorkshire's own extensive cheesemaking tradition, though a possible medieval precursor exists in a fourteenth century curd tart recipe, flavoured with elderflower and rosewater, in the royal cookery manuscript The Forme of Cury.

As tradition built it

Serves 8. 25 to 30 minutes, plus blind baking and cooling.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Blind bake the pastry case.
  2. Cream the butter with the caster sugar, then beat in the curd cheese, currants, salt and beaten eggs.
  3. Season with the ground allspice, and the rosewater if using.
  4. Pour into the pastry case and bake at 220°C for 25 to 30 minutes, then cool on a rack and serve at room temperature rather than hot.

What a modern chef changes

A house-cultured curd, and fresh-ground allspice in place of the jar

Kit note, not tied to a numbered rung.

Method

  1. Make the curd cheese in-house rather than buying it: culture whole milk gently, then drain it through muslin set in a chinois for several hours, controlling the final moisture content far more precisely than a shop-bought curd allows, and giving a cleaner, fresher dairy flavour than a curd of unknown age.
  2. Grind fresh allspice berries in a dedicated spice grinder immediately before use rather than using pre-ground spice, for a sharper, more genuinely aromatic lift.
  3. Bake the tart in a Big Green Egg run at a controlled, even indirect heat rather than a domestic oven, for a more consistent set across the whole tart than an oven's uneven heat distribution typically gives a shallow custard-based filling like this one.
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