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Britain and Ireland · Volume 36, The Grass, the Grain and the Border That Doesn’t Cut the Table

Soda Farls

Ulster

Soda farls, griddle-baked quartered bread: four pale golden triangular quarters of griddle bread with a lightly charred, mottled brown crust on both flat sides, stacked loosely on a wooden board.

Illustration

Time
25 minutes
Researched
1 source cited

The Ulster-Scots Agency's own heritage material gives real, specific quantities for this dish, a genuinely in-tradition source rather than a generalist recipe site. The name itself is local: "farl" comes from the Ulster-Scots and Scots word fardel, a quartered round, and the griddle method, rather than an oven-baked loaf, is the form specifically associated with Northern Ireland, distinct from the "wheaten" or brown soda loaf baked in a tin that is the everyday term for wholemeal soda bread across the rest of the island.

As tradition built it

Makes 4 farls. About 25 minutes.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Sift the flour, bicarbonate of soda and salt together, and make a well in the centre.
  2. Work in the buttermilk gradually to a soft dough, kneading lightly, since overworking toughens the finished bread.
  3. Roll to roughly 1 inch (2.5cm) thick, and cut into quarters.
  4. Cook on a preheated griddle or heavy pan, 8 to 10 minutes per side, until golden, turning once or twice.
  5. Best eaten the same day, with butter and jam.

What a modern chef changes

The precision the Ulster-Scots Agency's own recipe already implies, taken further.

Rung 1 and Rung 2

Method

  1. Weigh the bicarbonate of soda precisely rather than levelling a spoon by eye, since an over- or under-measured raising agent is the most common reason a home soda farl comes out either soapy-tasting or dense.
  2. Cook on a Big Green Egg's flat plancha attachment, the surface temperature held steady by probe thermometer rather than judged by hand, the honest home equivalent of a griddle over an even turf fire.
  3. Mix and shape the dough only once the griddle is fully up to temperature, so the bicarbonate's reaction has not begun to fade before the farls ever meet the heat.
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