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Mesoamerica · Volume 09, The Isthmus, the Interior and the Congo Coast

Saus

Colón, Panama

Saus, pickled pig's trotter: pale, cold pieces of gelatinous trotter meat in a shallow dish, tossed with thin rings of red and white onion, pale green cucumber slices and flecks of red ají chombo.

Illustration

Time
3 hours

As tradition built it

Saus

Serves 4 to 6. About 3 hours including a cold rest.

Ingredients

  • 4 lb pig's trotters
  • to taste salt, for the simmering water
  • 1 head garlic
  • 10 sprigs cilantro
  • equal parts white vinegar, for the dressing
  • equal parts lime juice, for the dressing
  • a little water, to thin the dressing
  • 2 white and red onion, minced
  • 2 cucumber, sliced
  • 2 ají chombo, chopped
  • to taste salt, for the dressing
  • to taste pepper, for the dressing

Method

  1. Simmer pig's trotters in water with salt, garlic and roughly 10 sprigs of cilantro for 2 to 3 hours, until fork-tender.
  2. Rinse and cool the trotters completely.
  3. Dress cold in equal parts white vinegar and lime juice, thinned with a little water, with minced white and red onion, sliced cucumber, chopped ají chombo, salt and pepper.
  4. Rest, refrigerated, before serving as a cold pickled snack.

Notes

Chicken feet or pork tail variants are also attested.

What a modern chef changes

A sous vide trotter, and a vinegar cure held for a genuine rest

Rung 04

Method

  1. Cook the trotters under sous vide at a temperature that renders the collagen fully tender without the meat falling apart, more consistent than a rolling boil across a batch of trotters of varying size.
  2. Prepare the vinegar and lime cure a day ahead and hold it cold, so the trotters go into a fully developed acid bath rather than a freshly mixed one, following Rung 4's instruction that this dish's vinegar rest is doing real work, not garnishing.
  3. Dehydrate a portion of the sliced cucumber and onion briefly before they go into the cure, concentrating their flavour and giving a firmer bite against the soft trotter.
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