Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

Mesoamerica · Volume 09, The Isthmus, the Interior and the Congo Coast

Saus

Colón, Panama

Saus, pickled pig's trotter: pale, cold pieces of gelatinous trotter meat in a shallow dish, tossed with thin rings of red and white onion, pale green cucumber slices and flecks of red ají chombo.

An illustration of the dish, not a photograph of it cooked.

Time
3 hours
Researched
Researched from 56 sources in the brief, none yet linked in the text
Reviewed
Not yet reviewed from inside the tradition
Cooked
Not yet cooked and reported

As tradition built it

Saus

Serves 4 to 6. About 3 hours including a cold rest.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Simmer pig's trotters in water with salt, garlic and roughly 10 sprigs of cilantro for 2 to 3 hours, until fork-tender.
  2. Rinse and cool the trotters completely.
  3. Dress cold in equal parts white vinegar and lime juice, thinned with a little water, with minced white and red onion, sliced cucumber, chopped ají chombo, salt and pepper.
  4. Rest, refrigerated, before serving as a cold pickled snack.

Notes

Chicken feet or pork tail variants are also attested.

What a modern chef changes

A sous vide trotter, and a vinegar cure held for a genuine rest

Rung 04

Method

  1. Cook the trotters under sous vide at a temperature that renders the collagen fully tender without the meat falling apart, more consistent than a rolling boil across a batch of trotters of varying size.
  2. Prepare the vinegar and lime cure a day ahead and hold it cold, so the trotters go into a fully developed acid bath rather than a freshly mixed one, following Rung 4's instruction that this dish's vinegar rest is doing real work, not garnishing.
  3. Dehydrate a portion of the sliced cucumber and onion briefly before they go into the cure, concentrating their flavour and giving a firmer bite against the soft trotter.
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