Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

Mainland Brazil · Volume 42, The Court and the Clay Pot

Isca de peixe

Rio de Janeiro

Isca de peixe, beach kiosk fried fish strips: a loose pile of golden brown battered fish strips with a craggy fried surface, stacked on a white paper-lined plate, a wedge of lime and a small dish of red hot sauce beside it.

An illustration of the dish, not a photograph of it cooked.

Time
4 minutes
Researched
6 sources cited
Reviewed
Not yet reviewed from inside the tradition
Cooked
Not yet cooked and reported

The standard beach kiosk and boteco fried fish across Rio's coastline: firm white fish, lightly marinated, dredged in a cold beer batter and fried hot enough to shatter rather than steam.

As tradition built it

Serves 4. About 20 minutes' marinating; 3 to 4 minutes to fry.

Ingredients

To serve

Method

  1. Marinate the fish strips 20 minutes in lemon juice, crushed garlic and black pepper.
  2. Whisk the cornflour, plain flour and cold beer into a batter just before frying so it stays light.
  3. Dredge the fish in the batter and fry in batches at 180°C until deep golden, 3 to 4 minutes.
  4. Serve with lime wedges and hot sauce.

What a modern chef changes

A drier surface before the batter, and a colder batter against hotter oil

Method

  1. Dry the marinated fish strips briefly on the dehydrator before battering, drawing off surface moisture so the batter adheres more evenly and fries crisper rather than steaming inside its coating.
  2. Chill the beer batter over ice until the moment of frying, keeping it as cold as possible against the hot oil for a lighter, more shattering crust.
  3. Finish with a dehydrated lime zest and salt mix scattered over at the pass rather than a wedge served on the side, for even citrus across the whole plate.
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