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Mainland Brazil · Volume 42, The Court and the Clay Pot

Isca de peixe

Rio de Janeiro

Isca de peixe, beach kiosk fried fish strips: a loose pile of golden brown battered fish strips with a craggy fried surface, stacked on a white paper-lined plate, a wedge of lime and a small dish of red hot sauce beside it.

Illustration

Time
45 minutes
Researched
6 sources cited

The standard beach kiosk and boteco fried fish across Rio's coastline: firm white fish, lightly marinated, dredged in a cold beer batter and fried hot enough to shatter rather than steam.

As tradition built it

Serves 5. About 45 minutes.

Ingredients

The fish

The batter

  • 2 tbsp cornflour
  • 120ml plain flour
  • ½ tsp salt
  • 240ml beer, at room temperature

To fry and serve

Method

  1. Season the fish with the lime juice, salt, pepper and garlic, and set it aside.
  2. Mix the cornflour, flour and salt in another bowl.
  3. Add the beer little by little, stirring until smooth.
  4. Pass the strips through the batter and tap off the excess.
  5. Fry a few at a time in hot oil until golden.
  6. Drain on paper and serve with lime slices.

Notes

The recipe is Ana Clara Archanjo's, for Guia da Cozinha, a boteco classic. No Rio newspaper recipe was found, and the source gives no oil temperature or frying time.

What a modern chef changes

A drier surface before the batter, and a colder batter against hotter oil

Method

  1. Dry the marinated fish strips briefly on the dehydrator before battering, drawing off surface moisture so the batter adheres more evenly and fries crisper rather than steaming inside its coating.
  2. Chill the beer batter over ice until the moment of frying, keeping it as cold as possible against the hot oil for a lighter, more shattering crust.
  3. Finish with a dehydrated lime zest and salt mix scattered over at the pass rather than a wedge served on the side, for even citrus across the whole plate.
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