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The Indian subcontinent · Volume 24, Nepal, Bhutan, Ladakh, Sikkim and Darjeeling

Dal bhat tarkari

Nepal, nationwide

Dal bhat tarkari, rice, lentil soup, vegetable curry and pickle on one plate: a wide plate with a central mound of steamed white rice, a small steel bowl of thin pale yellow dal set beside it, a spoonful of golden potato and cauliflower tarkari and a small dark red achar in two further compartments.

An illustration of the dish, not a photograph of it cooked.

Time
1 hour
Researched
Researched from 116 sources in the brief, none yet linked in the text
Reviewed
Not yet reviewed from inside the tradition
Cooked
Not yet cooked and reported

Nepal's everyday meal, eaten in most households twice a day, is less a single dish than a format: rice (bhat), a thin lentil soup (dal), a seasonal vegetable curry (tarkari), and achar, a broad category covering fresh, fermented and oil-preserved condiments alike, from boiled potato with sesame to hog plum pickle. Which lentil, which vegetable and which achar varies by region, household and season; what does not vary is the twice-daily rhythm or the caste logic sitting underneath it, since boiled rice and dal have historically been food that could not be accepted from a person of lower caste, a rule that shaped who could eat with whom for generations and that some households still observe in some form. This chapter could not locate a Nepal-published cookbook source giving dal bhat exact quantities to the standard the rest of this book holds itself to; Santosh Shah's own cookbook almost certainly does, and the working figures below, while genuinely cookable, come from diaspora and Western recipe sources rather than an in-tradition text, a gap worth stating rather than dressing up.

As tradition built it

Serves 4. About 1 hour.

Ingredients

For the dal

For the rice

For the tarkari

For the jhaneko and to serve

Method

The dal

  1. Rinse the dal and simmer in the water with a pinch of turmeric and salt, covered, 45 minutes to an hour, until fully soft; mash lightly.

The rice

  1. Separately rinse the rice, soak 30 minutes, then cook in the water, covered, until the water is absorbed, about 10 minutes on a low simmer once boiling, then rest off the heat 5 minutes.

The tarkari

  1. Sauté the vegetable in mustard oil with cumin seed, turmeric, ginger and green chilli until tender.

To finish

  1. Finish the dal with a jhaneko: bloom the jimbu and dried red chilli in the hot ghee until fragrant, and pour over just before serving.
  2. Serve all three together with a spoon of achar on the side, never poured over the rice, kept separate so each mouthful is composed by the eater, not the cook.

What a modern chef changes

A double jhaneko, pilau rice and a concentrated vegetable dust

Rung 3

Method

  1. Four deliberate changes, each tied to a rung above. First, cook the dal in a pressure cooker or sous vide bag at 90°C for two hours to extract more body from the lentil skins without breaking them into mush, then finish the texture by hand rather than the machine.
  2. Second, replace a single jhaneko with a layered one: bloom whole cumin and mustard seed in ghee at the start of the dal's cook for base aromatics, then a second, sharper jhaneko of jimbu and dried timur at the very end, rung three done twice, at two different temperatures, for two different effects.
  3. Third, cook the rice as a proper pilau method, toasting it briefly in ghee before the water goes in, then finishing the last few minutes under a tight lid for a thin tahdig-like crust at the base of the pan, an Iranian-adjacent idea applied honestly rather than pretending it is traditionally Nepali.
  4. Fourth, dehydrate a portion of the tarkari's vegetable trim into a powder and dust it over the finished plate for a concentrated, savoury top note that reads as an intensified version of the vegetable rather than a foreign addition.
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