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The Indian subcontinent · Volume 24, Nepal, Bhutan, Ladakh, Sikkim and Darjeeling

Dal bhat tarkari

Nepal, nationwide

Dal bhat tarkari, rice, lentil soup, vegetable curry and pickle on one plate: a wide plate with a central mound of steamed white rice, a small steel bowl of thin pale yellow dal set beside it, a spoonful of golden potato and cauliflower tarkari and a small dark red achar in two further compartments.

Illustration

Time
1 hour

Nepal's everyday meal, eaten in most households twice a day, is less a single dish than a format: rice (bhat), a thin lentil soup (dal), a seasonal vegetable curry (tarkari), and achar, a broad category covering fresh, fermented and oil-preserved condiments alike, from boiled potato with sesame to hog plum pickle. Which lentil, which vegetable and which achar varies by region, household and season; what does not vary is the twice-daily rhythm or the caste logic sitting underneath it, since boiled rice and dal have historically been food that could not be accepted from a person of lower caste, a rule that shaped who could eat with whom for generations and that some households still observe in some form. No Nepal-published cookbook source giving dal bhat exact quantities to the standard held everywhere else could be located; Santosh Shah's own cookbook almost certainly does, and the working figures below, while genuinely cookable, come from diaspora and Western recipe sources rather than an in-tradition text.

As tradition built it

Serves 4. About 1 hour.

Ingredients

For the dal

  • 200 g dal (yellow split lentils are the everyday choice, though masoor or a mixed dal is equally traditional depending on region)
  • 500 ml water
  • a pinch turmeric
  • a pinch salt

For the rice

For the tarkari

For the jhaneko and to serve

  • 1 tsp jimbu
  • 1 dried red chilli
  • 1 tbsp ghee
  • to serve achar

Method

The dal

  1. Rinse the dal and simmer in the water with a pinch of turmeric and salt, covered, 45 minutes to an hour, until fully soft; mash lightly.

The rice

  1. Separately rinse the rice, soak 30 minutes, then cook in the water, covered, until the water is absorbed, about 10 minutes on a low simmer once boiling, then rest off the heat 5 minutes.

The tarkari

  1. Sauté the vegetable in mustard oil with cumin seed, turmeric, ginger and green chilli until tender.

To finish

  1. Finish the dal with a jhaneko: bloom the jimbu and dried red chilli in the hot ghee until fragrant, and pour over just before serving.
  2. Serve all three together with a spoon of achar on the side, never poured over the rice, kept separate so each mouthful is composed by the eater, not the cook.

What a modern chef changes

A double jhaneko, pilau rice and a concentrated vegetable dust

Rung 3

Method

  1. Four deliberate changes, each tied to a rung above. First, cook the dal in a pressure cooker or sous vide bag at 90°C for two hours to extract more body from the lentil skins without breaking them into mush, then finish the texture by hand rather than the machine.
  2. Second, replace a single jhaneko with a layered one: bloom whole cumin and mustard seed in ghee at the start of the dal's cook for base aromatics, then a second, sharper jhaneko of jimbu and dried timur at the very end, rung three done twice, at two different temperatures, for two different effects.
  3. Third, cook the rice as a proper pilau method, toasting it briefly in ghee before the water goes in, then finishing the last few minutes under a tight lid for a thin tahdig-like crust at the base of the pan, an Iranian-adjacent idea applied honestly rather than pretending it is traditionally Nepali.
  4. Fourth, dehydrate a portion of the tarkari's vegetable trim into a powder and dust it over the finished plate for a concentrated, savoury top note that reads as an intensified version of the vegetable rather than a foreign addition.
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