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Iberia · Volume 10, Bacalhau and the Long Way Home

Bacalhau à Brás

Nationwide, most associated with Lisbon

Bacalhau à Brás, shredded salt cod with egg and matchstick potato: a loose golden tangle of shredded salt cod, soft scrambled egg and thin fried potato matchsticks piled on a plain dark plate.

An illustration of the dish, not a photograph of it cooked.

Time
40 minutes
Researched
2 sources cited
Reviewed
Not yet reviewed from inside the tradition
Cooked
Not yet cooked and reported

As tradition built it

Serves 4. About 40 minutes, plus soaking.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Poach the desalted cod gently in water or oil, well below a simmer, until just cooked, then flake it by hand, discarding skin and bone.
  2. Fry the matchstick potatoes until golden and just crisp; drain and set aside.
  3. Soften the onion and garlic in olive oil over low heat until translucent, not coloured.
  4. Add the flaked cod to the pan and warm through gently.
  5. Add the fried potatoes, then pour in the beaten eggs and stir over low heat until just set, still soft and slightly loose, never fully scrambled dry.
  6. Season with salt and pepper, and finish with black olives and chopped parsley.

What a modern chef changes

The cod's own rehydration and cooking, given the discipline the fish actually needs

Rung 1

Method

  1. Soak the cod in cold water in the fridge for a full 48 hours, changing the water four times, rather than rushing it under a tap, judging readiness by taste rather than the clock.
  2. Poach the cod in olive oil rather than water, holding the oil well below simmering point with a probe thermometer, protecting the fish's own fat and gelatine rather than boiling it out.
  3. Fry the potato matchsticks in a dedicated deep fryer or a controlled sous vide assisted double fry, for a more consistent crispness than a home hob usually manages across a full batch.
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