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Britain and Ireland · Volume 34, Salt, Smoke and the Land the Clearances Remade

Bere Bannock with Crowdie and Heather Honey

Orkney

Bere bannock with black crowdie and heather honey: a split, warm, pale brown griddle bannock with a dense speckled crumb, one half spread thickly with pale crowdie cheese rolled in dark toasted oatmeal.

Illustration

Time
20 minutes
Researched
5 sources cited

A griddle bread from the last bere-milling site in the world, split warm and finished with two other island staples.

As tradition built it

Makes 6 to 8. About 20 minutes.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Combine the beremeal, flour, baking powder, cream of tartar and salt.
  2. Add milk or water gradually, to a stiff, pliable dough.
  3. Knead briefly on a floured surface, then roll to about 2.5cm thick, and cut into rounds or wedges.
  4. Cook on a dry griddle or heavy pan over medium heat about 5 minutes a side, until golden.
  5. Split warm, and serve with black crowdie and heather honey.

What a modern chef changes

Both the bread and the cheese made with real, direct attention, rather than one shop-bought and the other assumed.

Kit note, not tied to a numbered rung.

Method

  1. Cook the bannocks on a well-seasoned cast iron griddle set directly on a Big Green Egg, for a harder, more even heat than most domestic hobs give a griddle bread.
  2. Make your own black crowdie rather than buying it (see the Cure and Smoke Bench below), rolling the fresh curds yourself in toasted pinhead oatmeal and cracked black pepper while they are still slightly warm, so the coating actually adheres.
  3. Warm the heather honey gently before serving, loosening it just enough to soak properly into the bannock's crumb rather than sitting on the surface.
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