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The Southern Cone · Volume 27, Cassava, Maté and the Chaco's Second Kitchen

Kivevé

Eastern Paraguay

Kivevé, a semi-sweet squash and cornmeal porridge: a shallow bowl of smooth, bright orange squash porridge with a soft, glossy sheen, a light scatter of crumbled white cheese melting slightly across the surface.

Illustration

Time
50 minutes

Declared National Heritage by DINAPI, Paraguay's national intellectual property body, Resolution RG No. 05/2018, indicating institutional recognition of its everyday cultural importance rather than festival-only status. Kivevé, Wikipedia No gram quantities were found in the sources gathered.

As tradition built it

Serves 4. About 50 minutes.

Ingredients

  • 500g andaí squash (the reddish-orange squash the dish is named for)
  • 1½ cups water
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 2 tbsp sugar, a little
  • ½ cup maize flour
  • 3 tbsp margarine
  • 150g queso Paraguay

Method

  1. Boil the andaí squash with water, salt and a little sugar until tender.
  2. Purée the squash and return it to its own cooking liquid along with maize flour and margarine.
  3. Cook further until thickened.
  4. Finish with queso Paraguay stirred through at the end.

What a modern chef changes

A smoother purée, and the cheese treated as a finishing element rather than a stirred-in one

Rung 1

Method

  1. Purée the cooked squash in a high power blender and pass it through a chinois for a genuinely silky base, rather than the coarser texture a hand masher gives.
  2. Reserve the queso Paraguay to finish rather than cook it in, grating or crumbling it over the hot porridge at the table so its moisture and mild acidity read as a fresh top note against the sweeter, cooked squash base, rather than dissolving fully into it.
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