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Mainland Brazil · Volume 39, The Fritter and the Fire

Casquinha de siri

Salvador, Bahia

Casquinha de siri, stuffed crab shell: a real scrubbed crab shell filled with golden brown gratinated crab meat, the surface flecked with toasted cassava flour and lightly browned at the edges.

Illustration

Time
30 minutes

As tradition built it

Casquinha de siri

Serves 4 to 6 as a starter. About 30 minutes.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Sauté the crab meat with garlic, onion, coriander and pepper.
  2. Finish with a spoonful of dendê and a splash of coconut milk.
  3. Pack the mixture back into cleaned crab shells or small ramekins.
  4. Top with a little farinha de mandioca and grill or bake briefly until the top browns.

Notes

The Bahian journalist Isabel Oliveira, writing for the regional paper A Tarde, profiles a named shellfish gatherer from Ilha de Maré, Verônica Farias, who supplies Salvador's restaurants and markets with crab meat picked using technique learned directly from her mother.

What a modern chef changes

A dehydrated crust and Big Green Egg char

Rung 4

Method

  1. Dehydrate a portion of the farinha de mandioca topping briefly before use, for a crisper, more consistent gratin crust under the grill than a straight-from-the-packet flour gives.
  2. Finish the filling with raw dendê stirred through off the heat rather than only the dendê cooked into the sauté, Rung 4.
  3. Achieve a light final crust under the Big Green Egg's direct heat rather than a domestic grill, for a genuine char the shell itself can carry without overcooking the crab beneath it.
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