The Mediterranean · Volume 03, The Aegean and the Contested Table
Afelia
Cyprus

Illustration
- Time
- Hands on 1 hour · Waiting 8 hours
- Researched
- 11 sources cited
As tradition built it
Marinate overnight, then about an hour covered.
Ingredients
- 1 kg pork, in 4cm cubes
- 240 ml red wine
- 2 tbsp dry coriander seed, crushed
- 120 ml oil
- to taste salt and pepper
- a little water
To serve
- to serve pourgouri (bulgur pilaf), or chips and yoghurt
Method
- Mix the wine and crushed coriander.
- Cut the pork into pieces of about 4cm, submerge them in the marinade and leave overnight in the fridge.
- Next day, drain the meat and keep the marinade.
- Heat the oil in a saucepan and cook the meat over a low heat until golden brown.
- Add the reserved wine and coriander, season, and add a little water. Cover.
- Simmer on a low heat until the meat is tender, about an hour.
- Serve with pourgouri, or with chips and yoghurt.
Notes
The method is the Cyprus Food Museum's first version; the hour and the 4cm cube are Proto Thema's (Cantina), which uses 2 to 3 tbsp of seed to a kilo. The Museum's second version fries the meat, simmers it in water about 30 minutes, and only then adds wine, coriander and salt, with no marinade.
What a modern chef changes
The coriander ground fresh and toasted, and the marinade's full time respected
Rung 6
Method
- Toast the whole coriander seed lightly before grinding, a modern refinement not described in any traditional source consulted, but one that sharpens the spice's aromatic oils without changing the dish's identity.
- Grind it fresh in a dedicated spice grinder rather than buying it pre-ground, which loses its aromatic oil quickly; this is a genuinely testable difference in a dish built on so few components.
- Do not shorten the overnight marinade. This is a penetration technique, not a surface seasoning, and a rushed version tastes like seasoned pork rather than afelia.