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Iberia · Volume 05, The Rías, the Feira and the Road to Santiago

Empanada Gallega de Berberechos

Coastal Galicia

Empanada gallega de berberechos, a Galician cockle pie in golden maize-and-wheat pastry: a round golden-brown pie with a plaited, crimped border, one thick wedge cut and laid on its side revealing a filling of soft cooked onion.

Illustration

Time
1 hour 30

Galicia's savoury pie, whose filling has always followed the geography it was made in: meat inland, whatever the sea gave that week on the coast, cockles, sardine fry, tuna, conger eel. The cockle version is the clearest demonstration of a genuinely distinctive Galician dough choice.

As tradition built it

About 1 hour, plus 30 minutes' dough rest.

Ingredients

For the dough

For the filling

Method

  1. Mix the maize flour with the wheat flour, salt and enough warm water and a splash of olive oil to bring it together into a firm, workable dough; rest for 30 minutes.
  2. Sauté the onion and red pepper slowly in olive oil until completely soft.
  3. Add the tin of chopped tomatoes and reduce for 15 minutes, then fold through the fresh cockles in their shells.
  4. Roll the dough into two discs. Line a tin with the base and spread the filling evenly, including the shells, which will open and release their juice directly into the pie as it bakes.
  5. Top with the second disc, seal the edges by crimping into the traditional plaited border, repunte, and cut a small hole in the centre of the top crust to vent steam.
  6. Bake at 200°C for 35 to 40 minutes until deep golden.

What a modern chef changes

A cockle liquor reduced separately, and a laminated crust

Method

  1. Shuck the cockles and reduce their liquor separately in a chinois-strained pan with a splash of Albariño until syrupy.
  2. Fold the concentrated liquor back through the sautéed pepper and onion base before filling, distributing the released-juice flavour evenly rather than by chance.
  3. Laminate the dough on a pasta roller for a genuinely thin, even crust, still built on the maize flour's structural advantage for holding moisture.
  4. Finish the baked pie with a light brush of the reduced cockle liquor for shine and a concentrated hit of flavour on the crust itself.
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