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The Nordics and the Baltic · Volume 23, The North Atlantic under the Danish Crown

Æbleskiver

Denmark

Æbleskiver, small spherical pancakes with a hidden slice of apple: a small heap of golden brown spherical pancakes piled loosely together, one ball split open to reveal a thin pale apple slice inside.

Illustration

Time
30 minutes
Researched
5 sources cited

The earliest documented form dates to the 1600s, and eighteenth-century Danish cookbooks describe "udbagte æbleskiver," cored apple sliced thin, dipped in batter and fried, where the fruit was the entire point rather than an occasional inclusion. The round-ball shape now considered definitive is a nineteenth-century development, arriving with the spread of cast-iron kitchen stoves, which gave the controlled, even heat a dedicated dimpled pan needs; batter was turned partway through cooking with a knitting needle as it set at the base.

As tradition built it

Makes about 25. About 30 minutes, plus resting.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Whisk the flour, baking soda, salt, cardamom and lemon zest together.
  2. Whisk in the buttermilk and egg yolks to a smooth batter, and rest 15 to 20 minutes.
  3. Whisk the egg whites with the sugar to soft peaks, and fold gently through the batter.
  4. Heat an æbleskivepan and butter each dimple well.
  5. Fill each dimple three-quarters full, and cook 1 to 2 minutes, until set at the edges, then turn a quarter with a skewer or knitting needle, letting the raw batter run down to fill the gap. Repeat turning every minute or so until each ball is evenly golden all round, 6 to 8 minutes total.
  6. Serve hot, dusted with icing sugar, with jam alongside.

What a modern chef changes

The fruit put back at the centre, since that is genuinely where the dish began

Kit note, not tied to a numbered rung.

Method

  1. Core a small, tart eating apple and cut it into thin rounds, one per æbleskive, dropping a slice into each dimple before the batter, and pouring batter over and around it, restoring the eighteenth-century structure of the dish rather than inventing a new one.
  2. Fold the egg whites in with real care, in two additions, since the dish's lightness depends on retained air an aggressive fold destroys.
  3. Brown a portion of the serving butter before dusting with icing sugar, for a nuttier finish that plays against the apple's sharpness rather than simply sweetening the dish further.
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