Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

Britain and Ireland · Volume 31, The Roast, the Crust and the Clotted Cream

Fish and Chips

England

Fish and chips, battered fish with double-fried chips: a large piece of golden, deeply crisp battered fish resting beside a generous pile of thick, pale golden double-fried chips.

Illustration

Time
45 minutes
Researched
9 sources cited

Battered fried fish and twice-fried chips, sold together from a shop rather than cooked at home, is the dish most readers of this book already half know, and the one most often let down by careless frying rather than a bad recipe.

As tradition built it

Serves 4. About 45 minutes.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Rinse the cut chips in cold water to remove surface starch, then dry thoroughly.
  2. Heat the oil to 120°C, and fry the chips in batches 6 to 8 minutes, until just cooked through but pale. Drain and rest.
  3. Whisk the flour, baking powder and a pinch of salt with the cold lager to a smooth, thin batter, and use immediately.
  4. Raise the oil to 190°C. Dust the fish lightly in flour, dip in the batter, and fry 6 to 8 minutes, until deep golden and crisp.
  5. Raise the oil back to 190°C and refry the chips 2 to 3 minutes, until crisp and golden.
  6. Drain both on kitchen paper, salt generously, and serve with malt vinegar.

What a modern chef changes

The two-stage discipline taken seriously at every step, and doneness judged by more than colour.

Rung 4

Method

  1. Hold the chip's first fry to a genuine 120°C and pull it purely on tenderness, not colour, checking with a skewer rather than eyeballing a pale chip, since the first fry's whole job is cooking the potato through, not browning it.
  2. Rest the fried chips fully, at room temperature, before the second fry. A hot second fry straight after the first steams rather than crisps, since the chip's own residual moisture has nowhere to escape.
  3. Mix the batter cold and fry the fish within minutes of mixing, never leaving it to stand. A batter that has sat loses its raising agent's lift and its own chill, both of which are doing real structural work in the fryer, not just a texture preference.
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