Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

West Africa · Volume 02, The Cassava-and-Bitter-Leaf Belt

Torborgee

Liberia, associated with the Lorma people of Lofa County

Torborgee, fermented palm oil and eggplant stew: a very dark, almost brick brown red thick stew, deeper and more matte in colour than an ordinary palm oil stew, pieces of dried meat and soft eggplant visible within it.

Illustration

Time
45 minutes
Researched
Researched from 133 sources in the brief
Reviewed
Awaiting a reader from inside the tradition
Cooked
Awaiting a cook report

As tradition built it

Serves 4. About 45 minutes.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Soften the onion in the torborgee oil, whose fermented, smoked character is already far more pungent than fresh palm oil.
  2. Add the eggplant or torborgee bean, the chilli and the mixed dried meat, chicken, pork or fish.
  3. Simmer until the eggplant collapses and the stew thickens to a deliberately bitter, richly smoky finish.
  4. Serve over rice or dumboy.

What a modern chef changes

The fermented oil sourced and used for what it specifically is, not treated as an off-brand palm oil

Method

  1. Buy torborgee specifically, country-labelled where possible, rather than substituting more fresh palm oil and more smoked fish to approximate it. The fermentation itself, not just the smoke, is what gives the dish its particular depth, and fresh palm oil cannot be pushed into tasting like it no matter how much smoked protein is added.
  2. Let the bitterness stand. This dish is not a fault to be corrected toward sweetness; its whole identity is the deliberate, controlled bitterness of the fermented oil against the protein.
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