Not Just Stew · The atlas · A working atlas of the world's cooking

North America · Volume 37, The Market, the Truck and the Tide

Crab Louis

Pacific Northwest and San Francisco, United States

Crab Louis: a bed of shredded pale lettuce topped with a generous mound of pale pink and white Dungeness crab meat, quartered tomato and hard boiled egg arranged around the edge.

An illustration of the dish, not a photograph of it cooked.

Time
Not statedNo source states a time and the atlas has too few comparable dishes to estimate one.
Researched
Researched from 92 sources in the brief, none yet linked in the text
Reviewed
Not yet reviewed from inside the tradition
Cooked
Not yet cooked and reported

As tradition built it

Crab Louis

Standard, widely converged convention, not a single canonical named recipe

Ingredients

For the salad

For the Louis dressing

Method

  1. Pile fresh picked Dungeness crab meat over a bed of shredded lettuce.
  2. Garnish with quartered tomato, hard-boiled egg and, in some versions, blanched asparagus.
  3. Make the Louis dressing: mayonnaise loosened with chili sauce or ketchup, a dash of Worcestershire, lemon juice and finely chopped spring onion, roughly two parts mayonnaise to one part chili sauce by volume.

Notes

The popular story that Enrico Caruso demanded the dish at Seattle's Olympic Club in 1904 is documented as false, since Caruso never performed in Seattle. Competing claims point to San Francisco's Poodle Dog restaurant in 1908, naming the dressing after chef Louis Coutard, and, credibly, to Portland's Bohemian restaurant, which James Beard himself believed originated it and which was advertising a "famous crab Louis" by the 1920s.

The earliest documented Northwest print appearance is a 1912 Portland community cookbook. This chapter follows Cascade PBS's own conclusion rather than adjudicating.

What a modern chef changes

Cured crab and a chinois-strained dressing

Ingredients

Method

  1. Cure the crab meat briefly with a light salt and citrus zest mixture before plating, the same technique used for the California roll.
  2. Pass the Louis dressing through a chinois for a completely smooth, glossy finish rather than the slightly grainy texture a hand-whisked version carries.
  3. Dehydrate and grind a portion of spring onion into a fine green seasoning dust, dusted over the finished plate alongside the fresh remainder for a sharper top note.
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